Some thoughts on New Orleans

I'm sitting here in a coffee shop in the Garden District on our last day in New Orleans. This is my third time visiting the city and I'm always charmed by it. Somehow this time I've experienced it on a different level, though. Perhaps it's because we've been staying in the heart of the city this time instead of outside. Perhaps it's because I've gotten over the tourist attractions and just relaxed into being in the city. Or maybe it's because I've seen so much more of the city this time by driving a biking around. Like the other times I've visited I'm still struck by the fact that this is a city unlike any other. A little story illustrates this:

One of our riders, Rachel, was outside the house looking for something in the van when a man walks by and strikes up a conversation. He was on his way back from a corner grocery store and was just being friendly. This is something that happens in New Orleans. People stop and talk to strangers. Sure it happens elsewhere, but I think I'm always a little bit surprised when a stranger just starts talking with me in D.C. Here it's normal.

A few minutes later Alan (our new friend) knocks on the door with a shopping basket full of muffuletta sandwiches. He said he always likes to help out the volunteers and wanted us to have the experience of some real New Orleanian food. He stayed and talked with us for about 45 minutes about New Orleans, peak oil, food, social isolation, where we're from, etc, etc, etc. Yes, perhaps we were quite ready for him to go and perhaps we were a little weirded out by his questions about when he should "stop by tomorrow," but his generosity and hospitality were things I've seen over and over here. Another rider's grandparents brought us red beans and rice the first night we arrived...and brought enough that we are still eating leftovers. A homeowner bought one of the groups painting her house lunch that included shrimp scampi. A couple local bike shops have given us discounts when we explained what we're doing.

This time I've also seen some more of the problems of the city. Rebuilding has not progressed like it could. Parts of the city that weren't hit very hard are doing well, but those that need help are not getting the support they need from the city, state and federal governments. Too much money is caught up in red tape and too many good ideas are caught up in political battles that are preventing real progress. Most of the good things I've seen are from NGOs and faith-based organizations. We worked it the Episcopal Diocese Disaster Response team which has been gutting homes for over a year and is now transitioning (like most other organizations) into rebuilding.

I've also seen some of the underlying and very subtle racism that is part of the city. To avoid making any general claims here are a couple examples: Our ride into the city from Mississippi took us straight through the Ninth Ward, the now-famous poor, black area of the city hit hard by Katrina. Two different unsolicited comments from white residents upon discovering our route went something like this: "You have no business being there," and "I wouldn't ride through there unless you've got a flak jacket." We rode through anyway, saw the devastation, and some riders even stopped and talked with residents. I'm not denying that this area was probably higher crime than many other parts of the city and these comments were made with our best interest in mind, but I cannot help but think that much of their concern was based on second and third hand reports and the fact that what you see in these neighborhoods are rundown houses and black people sitting on stoops.

Anyhow, enough of my sociological observations. Here are some simple highlights from my stay:

• Red beans and rice, muffulettas, beignets, and all the great food.
• Sitting in with Ryan Burrage at Fritzels and ending up playing a whole set.
• Hearing great music at the Spotted Cat on Frenchmen Street.
• Playing some poker at Harrah's.
• Painting, gutting, and landscaping in different parts of the city.
• Riding and driving around and feeling like I really know the city.
• Stopping by St. Bernard Parish and seeing Curly, a friend from my time there.
• Seeing a bunch of my fellow riders experience the city for the first time.
• Seeing my odometer go over 1000 miles since I bought my bike in April! (This was done while riding in a 10 foot diameter circle so that a couple of others could share in the joy. I arrived home at 999.2 and rode around the block a few times before finishing the job with 30 or 40 revolutions right outside our house.)
  

That's the word from the Big Easy. We leave tomorrow morning for Baton Rouge and eight straight days on the bike before getting to Dallas. It will feel good to get back on the road. I have really come to love being on the bike and actually don't feel very good when I'm not riding every day. I'll leave New Orleans knowing that I will come back again sometime soon.